Friday, July 24, 2009


[1]
July 20, 2009
Summer is moving right along. It doesn't seem like it as it was so late in arriving. It was barely light the other moring when I thought this would be a good morning to head for the high country even if for only a few hours. It is cold at 37 degrees when I leave town with a full cup of Kathy's European blend. Frank has been gone for a week and the shop has been late in opening at 7:00 so it is perfect to find him there at 5:30.
30 minutes later I am near the top of Union Pass SW of Dubois as the first rays of the sun bust the eastern horizon and filter coldly through the Spruce. It is 29 degrees on my truck thermometer.

[2]
July 20, 2009
Moments later I top the wide timber-open country of Union Pass. The Mountain Man's gateway to the western side of the continental divide. Elk are everywhere. Through the trees , the meadows. There is well over 100 head of cows and calves and they are certainly startled to see a human being out at this time of the morning. There is a lot of milling around, running, stopping, looking for calves. Finding them they are off again in seemingly utter confusion and the whole process starts over again. All the while squeeking and squeeling and barking in the way they do. What a show. But I do feel a little gulty at having disturbed their peaceful morning. A large snow drift keeps them from moving off to the left and into the thick timber. They finally kind of settle down and go to watching me from the edge of the timber along the branched off Moon Lake road. Just where I wanted to go. Surprisingly they seem to accept my presence and don't even seem that perturbed when I begin driving slowly towards them on the Moon Lake road.
[3]
July 20, 2009
What a start to the day. I shoot about 30 pictures of this incredible show and then they slowly move on off the road and meadow and into the timber. The sound of elk conversation and snapping of limbs fading with each second. Then I am alone with only the sound of a Pine Squirrel who is still a little annoyed at his early morning disturbance.and a Towndsend Solitaire flitting through the Whitebark Pines are the only other signs of life.
[4]
July 20, 2009
The Moon Lake road bumps along through alternating timber and open meadows that are open enough for some spectacular 360 degree views. To the north the Absarokas hazily catch the early morning light. The temperature is now up to 31 and the frosty meadows cast a milky green look over the landscape. The wildflowers are incredible and promise to give an eye stopping show of color. People in this part of Wyoming make yearly pilgrimages to the Union Pass area just to view the wildflower display.
[5]
July 20, 2009
Those wonderful views include the Green River Lakes area to the south with spectacular snow covered peaks thrusting skyward from the all ready high country around. 2 Pronghorn Antelope does are off and running away as I approach. There are a number of these around during the summer and are remnants of the main herds that migrate out from the Red Desert far to the south along the Gros Ventre and into Jackson Hole. This is the largest migration [outside of the caribou in Alaska and Canada]in North America.
[6]
July 20, 2009
To the SW is the Gros Ventre[pronounced grow vont]Range. Still with more snow than mountain showing. I can see the Tetons far to the west but they are hard to make out in the early morning mists.

[7]
July 20, 2009
I finally park near the Moon Lake trailhead where many pack trips originate into the Simpson Lake and Roadring Fork country. Hikers may be found continuing on from this point into the glacier country above and beyond the Roading Fork. It is still cold out though the frosty meadow is very wet underfoot and squishy to walk across doing about a mile hike at a pretty fast pace. Above to the SE is Union Peak which is near the point where the Columbia, Colorado and Mississippi river systems begin their journey across America.

[8]
July20, 2009
When I regain the forest on the other side the sun has hit the area and bathed it in a seemingly warm glow and feeling. It is definitely drier and the wildflowers such as Lupine thrive here at the forest edge. There are a few more Whitebark Pines alive here than farther out on the Union Pass road. Blister rust and Bark beetles have not gotten to them all. That is a good sign.
[9]
July 20, 2009
Heading back to the truck I recross the wet meadows full of Lousewort, American Bistort and many other species of colorful wildflowers. Most are covered with a layer of frost and the predominant wildflower of the meadow is the Alpine Forget-me-nots. Dainty and so fragile looking in their frosty coating. I finally find a few that the sun has hit and melted off the frost showing just how hardy these plants really are. Definitely Unforgetable.
[10]
July 20, 2009
Not having much time I head back down the mountain on a washboard of a road leaving behind those meadows and drop back into the thick timber. I have to run the gallery today and be open by 9:00.

[11]
July 20, 2009
I do stop befor the final descent down the switchbacks onto the valley floor to take a picure of one of my favorite views. The DuNoir Valley. What a view to end my morning and begin my work day. But with a morning like this it is easy to be inspired and grab a paintbrush and try to record my interpretations of this magnificent landscape and hopefully convey that into paintings the public just might find inspirational too.

Friday, July 17, 2009


[1]
July 9,2009
It was a pleasantely clear warm windless afternoon when I took my sister , Kathy and her husband, Jim, who were visiting from Oregon for a few days on a hike north of Dubois above Cartridge Creek.
A number of years ago I had discovered a colony of Pikas[cony or rock rabbits as they are also known]living in a rock slide area at the base of cliffs overlooking the Wiggins Fork River. Because of dwindling numbers of these appealing little animals even to the point of extinction I am curious to find out if they are still there. Global warming has affected their populations in that they are unable to handle warming temperatures because of their system of metabolism. They are a small bundle of fur that resemble a rabbit with small mouse like ears. They spend their summer days harvesting grasses and wildflowers that they spread out on rocks to dry and then store back in the rocks for their winter food supply. Their one big problem in this process is their propensity for thievery. They spend as much time stealing from one another as they do in harvesting. With their shrill little whistling noise and antics they are a real joy to watch. Their natural enemies are probably mostly coyotes and Birds of Prey.
We are heading for that ridge in the upper left of this photo.
[2]
July9, 2009
It is not that hard a climb and the timber is fairly open making hiking a real pleasure. With views like this and the cool temperatures it is wonderful to be out in God's great outdoors.

[3]
July9, 2009
Sudenly through the timber we catch a glimpse of Elk who are bedded down enjoying their afternoon siesta. They must sense something as several of them rise up and are looking in our direction. I get this one picture and take a step sidways to get a clearer shot. and just as I knew would happen that picture is a blur of legs and bodies and timber. They are gone just that quick and almost as fast the sound of cracking timber is gone too and there is just silence once again. It is one of those things that happen so quickly you ask yourself "Did it really happen?'
[4]
July9.2009
Trail? I use no trails except what the critters have left me with. My sister, Kathy, shows off ther trail form as we negotiate a downed timber area. She said what?! about mosquitos and my bushwhacking?

[5]
July9, 2009
We finally hit the ridge line we were headed for. I had taken a different approach than I did years ago thinking it would be easier hiking and I was right about that part however I have ended up south and on a different ridge than I wanted and would have to negotiate another ridge route to get to my Pika cliff. Oh well. That can be saved for another trip. Finding and getting there is what this whole hiking adventure is about. We are just enjoying the view here straight above the Wiggins Fork and looking NE up into the Caldwell drainage. True wilderness as wild and grand as the day God created it and said "This is good".
I have been on horseback in the upper reaches of Caldwell Creek in Kodachrome Basin[well named]on over the top into Wiggins Fork and all the way down that area to Double Cabins. I will never forget those trips.
We spend a great deal of time just absorbing the view and pointing out various landmarks.

[6]
July9, 2009
We follow the ridge line to the south and negotiate rock faces and timber but don't find anything close to pika habitat. I wanted to do this to satisfy my curiosity about whether there were any more colonies herabouts. I don't think there are. Everything at the edge is straight off over cliff faces and the time is slipping into late afternoon. We have a ways to go so we finally depart those drop offs and manuever our way back down the mountain to where we have parked.

[7]
July 9,2009
We are not that far from Double Cabins and the end of the road. This is as fas as one can go by vehicle into the Absarokas. From here on there are thousands of square miles of wilderness. One of the vast wildernesses in the lower 48. The true American Serengheti for wildlife and landscapes.
Double Cabins is at the confluence of Frontier Creek and the Wiggins Fork and it is here that the two streams meander into numerous channels leaving a wide valley that is reminescent of Alaskan rivers the way they spread and meander through many channels particularly during spring run off.
Double Cabins received its name from the story of two trappers in years past who built a cabin here to trap during the winter. As the winter progressed they became pretty disagreeable to one another and finally a line was drawn down the middle of the cabin. Each keeping to his area. One of them finally decided that this was ridiculous and went on down river a ways and built his own cabin. However it was quickly over run by pack rats and in desperation he set it on fire exclaiming no pack rats would ever use it again. The name Double Cabins stuck and is known today as that.
[8]
July9, 2009
Norton Point towering above the valley floor to the north. Rock hunters love this area as it is full of semi-precious stones of all kinds including petrified wood. All great for jewelry making.
The largest Petrified wood forest in the world is up Frontier Creek and is seemingly safe from rock hounds as it is a rough 6+ miles to get there.
[9]
July9, 2009
One could photograph and paint these ever changing scenes for hours or days but it is getting late so we reluctantly head back to Dubois some 35 miles away by dirt road.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

July6, 2009[1]
After a pretty hectic 4th of July weekend I finally manage some time off from gallery duty and take advantage of it monday afternoon. The Brent Creek road opened for the year and I have not had a chance to go check things out up that way so now that is my destination. As early as this morning the weather folks were predicting drying and warmer weather. A thunderstorm is rolling through town as I head north up the Horse Creek road. By the time I reach the Brent Creek road there are threatening clouds overhead and MPR is now calling for severe thunderstorms from Fremont County through Yellowstone. Hmm.

July 6, 2009[2]
With the unbelievable moisture we have had this year it is still unbelievably green. Looking across the Wind River Valley towards the Wind River Range the greenery climbs skyward until it gives way to the snow and glacial fields with Downs Mountain breaking the stormy skyline. These snow and glacier fields are the largest in the continental United States. To the right side of this photo is the birthplace of the Mississippi, Colorado and Columbia Rivers.

July6, 2009[3]
To the NE looking across the Absarokas is Wiggins Peak catching a stormy colored light from a soft diffused sun. It still makes for a beautiful though threatening looking lasndscape. I come to a point in the dirt road where it hugs the side of the mountain with a perpendicular drop below. A landslide has occured seemingly blocking access. Several vehicles though have traversed across it and so I give it a try. I'm glad it is all dirt as I can feel the bottom of my truck scraping the dirt. Within another 1/4 mile it is getting pretty wet and starting to rain and as I am now in pretty thick timber and my views are blocked I decide to retrace my path and hike lower down the mountain so it is back over the landslide and onto more secure footing.

July6, 2009[4]
My hike is interupted many times to photograph some of the beautiful wildflowers that are blooming in such an array of colors and varieties such as these columbines. I am sure glad I put on some mosquito spray as they are out in hordes looking for just that spot I might have missed.
July6, 2009[5]
Both red and white varieties of Wild Geranium interspersed with the color of other wildflowers are a veritable garden under the open forest canopy as I begin following an elk trail up a steep slope in the timber. It is nice and cool and the rain has not materialized as I only get an occassional drop hitting me. Perfect for a hike. Except for those pesky mosquitos.

July 6, 2009[6]
That open forest canopy swiftly becomes a tangle of down timber and if it was not for this elk trail I am following it would be a real task hiking through here. These yellow blossomed Heart Leaf Arnica don't seem to mind as they thrive in this environment adding color along the tail. Interestingly the trail is not too far from the forest edge. Many times I know hunters will hunt the open meadows not realizing the game they are seeking may indeed be on a trail such as this watching them. They have picked their way of travel carefully.

July6, 2009[7]
I finally break out into the open forest again and after a pretty good climb and hike I head back towards where I parked my truck this time following the meadow that I had seen from the timber. The sun has not gotten any brighter being hidden in a thin veil of clouds and that muted light is continuing to wash the cliffs above the Wigggins Fork off to the east in that beautiful soft light. There is sure some great painting opportunities in this light and with these views.

July6,2009[8]
I drive on down the road and again park for a short hike through the mostly Aspen
forest. The sun is now out in full force and the sky is less threatening. A light wind stirs through the Aspens and sets their leaves trembling . That beautiful sound that can only be heard in an Aspen grove. The petiols of the leaves are attached in such a way that the slightest breeze will set them shaking creating that Aspen music. Hence the scientific name for the tree, Populus tremuloides .

July 6, 2009[9]
Back out on the main Horse Creek road I photograph Horse Creek itself with its banks full from high water. The brilliant red from Indian Paintbrush wildflowers contrast with the many shades and values of green. A true complimentary color scheme of nature.
July6, 2009[10]
Three horses from the Strook RAnch make for an interesting composition with the willow bottoms of Horse Creek and the towering volcanic pillars of Boedicker Buttes against a background of a raging thunderstorm to the north.

July6,2009[11]
I finally end my afternoon by stopping off at the Horse Creek Campground where I refill my water bottle with where some of the best tasting and coldest water on the planet can be found. Then its on back to town where I get a parting shot of the day above town of a view of the area I have spent my afternoon. In the shadow of the Ramshorn Peak.